The American CheeseSteak Co. - Surviving Sedlack

I've been impatiently waiting for this place to open since the spring. Perfect example of why you simpy put "COMING SOON" in your window, verses "OPENING SPRING 2011". Spring was 7 months ago, either we've waited a really long time for something amazing, or you couldn't get your shit together.


Anyways. After bailing on the Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe project Anthony Sedlack hasn't really done anything noteworthy. Que 'The American CheeseSteak Co'. Situated on Davie near Howe, this venue houses a medium-sized communal table and is heavy on the brick and subway tile deco.


It's easy to hate a couple things right from the get-go, the oddly infantile artwork (crayon? pencil crayon?), the verbose menu, and most of all the 20 min wait. But when it comes down to taste the Philly CheeseSteak redeems itself.  I've had The Philly with American cheese and The Classic with provolone, both with onions and both tasted remarkable. It's unlike anything I've had in Vancouver to date. Made to order; the meat is well seasoned, the cheese is gooey goodness, and it all comes together in a flavor explosion in your mouth.
This isn't something you'll soon forget, it will linger on your tastebuds and in your subconscious for days.

Random fact - apparently 85% of Americans have Cheese Whiz on their CheeseSteak. Gross.


This place is another great concept to jump aboard the Vancouver sammich train. If The American CheeseSteak Co. can survive the self-destructive Sedlack ego and doesn't sell out, it seems original enough to make it.

corner suite bistro de luxe

If it is ever appropriate to use the phrase 'nouveau-vintage-chic', Corner Suite Bistro de Luxe might just be the only place in Vancouver lucky enough to deserve the title I officially made up. And seriously, "Corner Suite Bistro de Luxe"? Why so verbose? And turquoise is your accent color of choice? Really? Anyway, I might forgive them for trying to be a little too bougie, because the food deserves some credit.

Originally slated to open in early November of '09, Corner Suite Bistro de Luxe finally opened it's doors on February 4th after waging a paperwork war with the licensing department of pre-Olympic Vancouver. Subject to an extraordinary amount of hype because of local boy, celebrity chef Antony Sedlack (from the Food Network show, The Main), I had to see what all the talk was about. So I ventured in not just once, but twice for dinner over Valentine's Day weekend, thus creating my Corner Suite Love List.

What do I LOVE you ask? Well. Even more than I love salivating over executive chef Antony Sedlack and his new extreme makeover (which may or maynot have included loosing 40 pounds and facial reconstructive surgery), I love his menu. French-influenced, it is beautifully balanced with West-coast flavor and top-notch ingredients. Love is patient, Love is kind, Love is delicious and in an edible heaven, Love comes in the form of a tuna nicoise salad. 

Undoubtedly #1 on my Love List at Corner Suite, the tuna nicoise has yummy little fingerling potatoes, egg, tomato, haricots verts, and olives. Such a great combination, but it's the dressing that ties all the scrumptiousness together.

Tied for #2 on the Love List is the beef tartare with quail egg and the crispy pig's ear with sweetbreads, onion soubise, and shallot & parsley sauce. The tartare is smooth, but it doesn't quite match the depth of flavor of the steak tartare from La Brasserie.  Whether it's curiosity or simply love of porcine, the crispy pig's ear is almost worth the $14. Exactly as it's labelled, the pig's ear is crispy without being chewy, but the small portion size leaves you wanting more. Not that I'm an expert on glands, but the sweatbreads seem way too rich.

Falling into the #3 position on my Love List is the skate wing with gnocchi in a lemon cream sauce. What is skate wing you ask? Well, as anyone with an iPhone would do, I googled the shit out of this while I was in the restaurant, so I didn't have to ask the server and look stupid. And because Love works in mysterious ways, I totally recommend eating this fish thing that looks like a sting ray because it is melt-in-your-mouth delicious. The meat is succulent and with the homemade gnocchi the combination of textures is genius.

My verdict? Corner Suite doesn't live up to all it was hyped up to be; the service sucks (it took over an hour get our food), the food is overpriced, and the place is riding on the coattails of Sedlack's fame. Maybe wait till they get their shit together, get dressed up, sit at the bar, check out the massive drink menu, and see for yourself. 

 

Crispy Pig's Ear with Sweetbreads

 

Tuna Nicoise Salad

  

The Veal Cheeks. A little too salty, and not as good as La Brasserie. 

 

The Steak with Blue Cheese Butter and Frites.   

 

The Duck Confit. Uninspiring.